16/38 Haunted Holiness

Pastel sketch: Fresno

With plenty of time to reach Santiago, there was no rush. At the Sanctuary of Our Dear Lady of Fresno I felt compelled to linger. I took out my sketchbook and sat down to draw. The sudden ringing of church bells made me jump. Happens on Sundays, but I had forgotten what day it was. For a while there was not a soul to be seen, but slowly worshippers arrived from nearby hamlets and the priest opened the door. Normally I don’t go to church, but on this day I could not just walk away. After mass I was called into the sacristy where I received a card with the image of Our Dear lady of Fresno, and two stamps, one in my ‘credencial’ and one in my sketchbook. I left blessed with a “buen Camino”. Video still: Fresno

All that was missing was a cheerful July Andrews singing the Sound of Music as I walked over the hills into the small village of San Marcello. No one had ever told me there is a saint with my name. Unlike the many dilapidated villages this one was just delightful. It had to be, didn’t it! It overflowed with flowers in my favourite colour, orange, true! They must have known I was coming. With the cutest little chapel locked, no accommodation or restaurant to provide shelter and with rain pelting down it was impossible to draw or linger, so time to let go and move on. Video Still: Fresno

The next albergue was located in an enormous half ruined monastery. The gate was locked, it was till raining and there was no shelter. I walked into the nearby village to find a nice café to hang out in. There were quite a few, but none to my liking. The last one just had to do. I asked the bar man if he happened to know what time the albergue would open. You never know who might know. To my great surprise he handed me a key as an answer, da key!
Video still compilation

Many historical places along El Camino have a wonderful feeling about them. This one didn’t. A barking dog trapped in of the ruined parts echoed the unease that hang about. I tried but could not find the dog. The five pilgrims staying that night had the luxury of a haunted dorm each.